Collagen is in our smoothies, our powders, our supplements and, increasingly, our serums. Yet for all the noise, few of us could explain what it actually does, or why celebs such as Halle Berry, Jennifer Aniston and Kourtney Kardashian are such big fans.
What’s also shifting is how collagen is made. The conversation is moving from where it comes from to how it’s engineered: designed through biotechnology, then paired with delivery technology built to get it into the skin. It’s a beauty story that now reads like a tech one.
What collagen does in skin
Collagen is a structural protein, and in skin it acts as a kind of internal framework. “Think of collagen as the scaffolding that keeps our skin looking firm, plump and supported,” says Sirichau Mukura, Head of Education at Kiehl’s. “As we age, our natural collagen production gradually slows down.”
That decline can begin as early as our mid-20s, and its effects are gradual. “As we age, changes in collagen affect our skin’s underlying structure, leading to visible changes in firmness, volume and elasticity,” Mukura explains. It’s why fine lines and a flatter, less springy complexion tend to show up together.
Collagen, engineered
The challenge for skin care is that a serum can’t simply swap in new scaffolding, and Mukura is upfront about the limits. “At Kiehl’s, it’s not about replacing lost collagen,” she says. “It’s about innovative formulations that help improve the appearance of firmness, volume and bounce, giving skin that healthy, youthful-looking plumpness.”
That’s where the technology comes in. The new Kiehl’s 1cc CollaShot Plump Serum is built around a recombinant collagen polypeptide, an ingredient Mukura describes as made in the lab rather than simply sourced. A polypeptide is a chain of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. “It’s all about precision!” she says. “Our recombinant collagen polypeptides are engineered through biotechnology.”
The second piece is delivery. The serum pairs the polypeptides with what Kiehl’s calls Supra-Liposome Technology, designed for faster absorption. “Combined with our innovative Supra-Liposome Technology for faster absorption, they help support the appearance of firmer and plumper skin,” says Mukura. “It’s where Kiehl’s apothecary heritage meets modern skin care innovation.”
Eating it versus applying it
The other half of the collagen boom is the supplement aisle, and Mukura says the two routes work in fundamentally different ways. “The biggest difference is how they work,” she says. “When we consume collagen, our body breaks it down into amino acids and smaller peptides. They don’t automatically go straight to our skin!”
Topical products take a more direct route. “Topical skin care, on the other hand, works directly on the skin’s appearance,” she says. “CollaShot takes an innovative approach with precision-engineered collagen polypeptides and advanced delivery technology to target the visible signs associated with collagen loss.”
A closer look at one formula
Kiehl’s has just entered the collagen category, and the CollaShot ingredient list shows how a modern formula is built: the recombinant collagen polypeptide plus two supporting actives, Rhamnose and Vitamin B12.
“At Kiehl’s, every ingredient has a purpose!” says Mukura. “Our recombinant collagen polypeptides help support the appearance of skin’s firmness and density. Rhamnose helps visibly restore bounce, suppleness and natural cushion, while Vitamin B12 gives the formula its beautiful pink colour and helps target the appearance of skin fatigue. Together, they create a formula designed to leave skin looking plumper, smoother, and more radiant.”
Texture and scent were part of the brief too. “Skin care should be something you enjoy,” she says. “CollaShot has a unique bouncy gel texture that transforms into a lightweight, silky serum, complemented by a fresh, uplifting aroma blend of geranium, bergamot, orange peel and rosemary.”
What the numbers say
Kiehl’s tested the serum in a cosmeto-clinical study and an instrumental test. The results, as reported by the brand:
- +21% volume in a cosmeto-clinical study of 109 subjects applying the serum twice daily for 12 weeks
- +9% elasticity in the same study
- 3x improvement in plumpness after eight weeks, from the cosmeto-clinical study
- 48-hour hydration in an instrumental test of 25 subjects
These are Kiehl’s own results, and individual results may vary. The brand frames them as improvements in the appearance of skin rather than a rebuild of its collagen. “Our clinical testing showed 21% more volume and three times the plumpness improvement after eight weeks,” says Mukura.
The twice-daily protocol is central to those results. “Consistency is key to great skin care!” she says. “That’s why I always encourage customers to make skin care part of their morning and evening routines.”
